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I hesitate to bring this up as I have heard so many pros and cons. But, if anyone would care to chime in on this the input would be appreciated.
I have a Match Grade Machine barrel in 35 Whelen for my Encore ProHunter. This barrel came with instructions for an extensive break in procedure. Wanting to be able to give an honest answer if the barrel did not shoot well and was asked about the break in procedure, I followed instructions to the letter. It required 75 rounds in total with cleaning after so many rounds which varied with the total number fired. This barrel is a fantastic shooter.
I have another barrel coming in next week from Match Grade Machine in 308 Win. I am sure it is going to come with the same brake in recommendation. I fully intend to follow their instructions this time, also. If nothing else it is a great excuse for range time.
I have never followed a particular break in procedure before getting my first MGM barrel. If a rifle shot well out of the box I never gave it a second thought. I have, when confronted with a new rifle that was stubborn out of the box, used a repetitive process of shooting and cleaning that turned the gun into a decent shooter. But nothing as protracted as 75 rounds. I fully believe that MGM would not insist upon this break in procedure just for the heck of it. Again, I will follow their instructions regardless. But, anyone have any thoughts on the matter of breaking in a barrel.
You no doubt have a good barrel manufacturer there, Gary.
I received my new MGM 308 Win. barrel. The break-in instructions were minimal. Basically, shoot and clean after each shot for a few rounds and check for copper fouling. If minimal fouling, shoot several shots in succession before cleaning. If fouling was minimal and groups appeared good then the barrel was good to go. This is essentially what I did. The thing cleaned up really quick. This was obviously a very smooth barrel. It appears to be an excellent shooter so far with factory loads. I have not yet attempted to shoot my hand loads with it yet.
The only other 308 Win. I have is a Ruger Scout Rifle with the 18.7" barrel. This is one of my very favorite rifles and accuracy is over the top with a number of bullet weights. The only downside to this gun is velocity. With the short barrel I am limiting my bullet weight to 150 grains if I am expecting to have to shoot any distance. With 165 grains and 180 grains the velocity is low and shots would have to be pretty close. Actually, that is probably OK as most of the hunting I will do with this gun is in thick woods anyway. I am getting 2500 fps with 165 grain bullets and 2400 with most 180 grain bullets and 2650 fps with the 150 grain Barnes TTSX. The 26" barrel MGM barrel is running consistently 200 to 250 fps or so higher velocity for the same bullet.
Yep great stuff there Andries!
I follow the manufacture break in procedures just as a matter of insurance. Meaning that if there is a problem later and the firearm must be returned to the factory I want to be able to tell the factory I used their procedures.
I have even recently begun keeping a journal of the ammo and the round count shot out of my new firearms. Which aren't many as there are literally tons of good used firearms out there for a fraction of the cost of new if you are patient and quick :)
I suppose that it might not be a bad idea to do the same for my older and used firearms.
The first time I heard of breaking in a barrel was when I came to Colorado in 2012. It all depends on the manufacturer's post rifling cut attention to finishing whether it is a necessary process or not - or the user expectations. No rifle or barrel made in Europe or South Africa will sell if any amount of "breaking in" is required. If it becomes known that any rifle brand or new barrel is not capable of better than 1 MOA groups off the shelf other users here will simply stay away from that brand and buy something else.
"Breaking in" a barrel has different meanings for different folks even in the USA, but in principle it is to relieve the metal stresses caused by the boring, rifling and outside machining processes. International manufacturers like SAKO, CZ, Musgrave, Truvello, and others do proper stress relieving heating and cooling prior to final assembly.
No barrel from the above manufacturers will ever need lapping or polishing to ensure a smooth bore either - they all are mirror smooth from the factory. Any hammer forged barrel that in any case needs lapping or polishing after the process in any way means that a rough and ready mandrel had been used. Even hammer forged barrels need stress relieving.
Should a barrel need stress relieving it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidelines. There however is an old Boer method used by international 100-1000 yds event winners after a new barrel or rifle was bought: Two packets of ammunition (40 rds) was put through it at the best rate the shooter could load and fire it. Then it was allowed to cool completely, cleaned and only shot again the following day.